Don't listen to Kendall--he's an idiot. Just ask anyone who knows him. OK, seriously, I was trying to remember what you call those things...yeah, a HeliCoil. BUT, Carl surely knows about that already...so I assumed there was some reason a HeliCoil would not work.
2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
-
kendall_smith
- Posts: 450
- Joined: 12 Jan 2012 17:21
- Photo URL: http://
- Location: Island of Holidays, NW AR
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
troy wrote:Don't listen to Kendall--he's an idiot. Just ask anyone who knows him. OK, seriously, I was trying to remember what you call those things...yeah, a HeliCoil. BUT, Carl surely knows about that already...so I assumed there was some reason a HeliCoil would not work.
I hope a heli-coil will work, because I'm not sure what else you could do in this situation. I don't think it would be possible to tap the threads to the next size up bolt since there isn't much material on that filter cover. If you were to drill that cover out, the hole might disappear completely! The only option beyond that would be to tear the bottom end of the engine apart and replace the right side case with a new one.
I agree with Troy, though. (Not about the Kendall is an idiot thing!)
More about the part where he said if anyone can figure it out, it would be Carl. He seems to have a knack for this kind of thing! I'm wishing you the best of luck and I'm curious to find out what the solution is.77 XR 75 * 15 KTM 300 XC-W * 14 Suzuki DR 650 * 14 Suzuki DR-Z 400
Let's ride!
Let's ride!
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
troy wrote:Don't listen to Kendall--he's an idiot. Just ask anyone who knows him. OK, seriously, I was trying to remember what you call those things...yeah, a HeliCoil. BUT, Carl surely knows about that already...so I assumed there was some reason a HeliCoil would not work.
You guys are tough on each other! Guess I better get used to it.
You are correct. have done several in the past, I even have a couple in larger sizes. I think my issue is the size. After going to Strauser Hardware this morning I realize it is an M5. M6 is as small as they have, of course. I see M5 inserts here.
http://www.zoro.com/e-z-lok-threaded-in ... lsrc=aw.ds
I am needing a kit, as I sold (gave away) my tap and die set in last divorce. I priced a 24 piece metric set at Strauser for $89 ! Woo hoo not going that route. But on the other end of the spectrum I tried a Harbor Freight set a while back and returned it as soon as I opened it, not good.
I have another idea I will report on later if successful.
Gotta finish my laundry first!
Last edited by carlrf on 20 Dec 2015 12:08, edited 3 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
I think people worry too much about having their oil filter cover tight and leak free. Just carry extra oil along on the ride--duh. How bad could it really be to run a high-compression engine out of oil? Engine lubrication in general is way overrated. You guys should subscribe to my Motorcycle Maintenance HowTo Channel on YouTube and learn from the expert.carlrf wrote:You are correct. I think my issue is the size. After going to Strauser Hardware this morning I realize it is an M5. M6 is as small as they have, of course. I see M5 inserts here.troy wrote:Don't listen to Kendall--he's an idiot. Just ask anyone who knows him. OK, seriously, I was trying to remember what you call those things...yeah, a HeliCoil. BUT, Carl surely knows about that already...so I assumed there was some reason a HeliCoil would not work.
http://www.zoro.com/e-z-lok-threaded-in ... lsrc=aw.ds
I have another idea I will report on later if successful.
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
Woo, I feel better now, thanks!Troy, the RideForum Maestro wrote: I think people worry too much about having their oil filter cover tight and leak free. Just carry extra oil along on the ride--duh. How bad could it really be to run a high-compression engine out of oil? Engine lubrication in general is way overrated. You guys should subscribe to my Motorcycle Maintenance HowTo Channel on YouTube and learn from the expert.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Stripped Oil Cover Thread Repair
Being impatient as I so often am, I wanted a quick fix. So let's glue it together!
Find an M5 bolt that is longer than original.
Double nut it so I can work with it.
Put it in the vise.
Get out the Dremel tool and cut the head of the bolt off.
Clean the threads up with a small file.
Make sure a nut goes on and off easy.
Degrease the bolt.
Degrease the case threads (what's left of them). Actually did this last night so it had time for solvent to evaporate.
Get out the JB Weld in equal parts.
Of course mix thoroughly until color is uniform.
Put JB Weld in the thread bore and coat the threads of the bolt.
Screw in the bolt with what threads are left and wait until tomorrow!
I will take the double nuts off after it cures and use one with a washer to secure the plate. It ought to work and can be repeated for the other two if they give out at a later date.
Find an M5 bolt that is longer than original.
Double nut it so I can work with it.
Put it in the vise.
Get out the Dremel tool and cut the head of the bolt off.
Clean the threads up with a small file.
Make sure a nut goes on and off easy.
Degrease the bolt.
Degrease the case threads (what's left of them). Actually did this last night so it had time for solvent to evaporate.
Get out the JB Weld in equal parts.
Of course mix thoroughly until color is uniform.
Put JB Weld in the thread bore and coat the threads of the bolt.
Screw in the bolt with what threads are left and wait until tomorrow!
I will take the double nuts off after it cures and use one with a washer to secure the plate. It ought to work and can be repeated for the other two if they give out at a later date.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
Hope the stud option works well for you. As for Heli-Coils I've had problems with them in the past and use Time Serts instead. I've used Time Serts in cast aluminum exhaust manifolds, aluminum heads, and cylinders without any problems. The only downside is they are quite a bit more expensive but work great for bolts that are removed and reinstalled often.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8
Ed M
BFE, TX
BFE, TX
Brake Pedal and Skid Plate.
Before the above repair was started (yes this is out of sequence, sorry) I removed the brake pedal and skid plate to gain better access to the work area.
Cleaned it up applied some fresh grease. Lost one of the o-rings in the process but found it a bit latter on the floor.
If you recall, earlier I relocated the position of the brake pedal. After doing so I found that the pedal and my foot were catching on the skid plate. So some where in all this I pulled the skid plate and used a small sheetrock hand saw to trim it then cleaned it up with a course file.
Also in this picture you can see the end result of the JB weld repair. I left the bolt a bit longer than needed, couldn't tell you why.
I put a little rubber cover over the end of the bolt. I always save the rubber and plastic pieces that come with other stuff I buy, never can tell when I will need them. 
There is more saga to share with the repair though. Will cover it in a bit.
Cleaned it up applied some fresh grease. Lost one of the o-rings in the process but found it a bit latter on the floor.
If you recall, earlier I relocated the position of the brake pedal. After doing so I found that the pedal and my foot were catching on the skid plate. So some where in all this I pulled the skid plate and used a small sheetrock hand saw to trim it then cleaned it up with a course file.
Also in this picture you can see the end result of the JB weld repair. I left the bolt a bit longer than needed, couldn't tell you why.
I put a little rubber cover over the end of the bolt. I always save the rubber and plastic pieces that come with other stuff I buy, never can tell when I will need them. There is more saga to share with the repair though. Will cover it in a bit.
Last edited by carlrf on 11 Jan 2016 17:24, edited 1 time in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Skid Plate Mounting Bolt Issues
This is definitely belated as I have been busy getting retired .
Of course the bottom skid plate bolts were tough coming out of their "Body Bolt Clips" , should I expect anything else?
One of them was cross threaded and when trying to clean up the threads it ended up looking like this.
.
Needless to say I didn't have any of these laying around so I needed to come up with something else.
A couple of nuts with the locking flange as part of the nut glued (Gooped) on to the frame. I may need to JB Weld these next time the skid plate is off as I am not sure how well the Goop will work in this situation but they needed something as it was very difficult to hold and align the skid plate, reach in trying to hold the nuts all while attempting to thread in the new bolts I had sourced for the purpose.
The picture is pre-goop. All said and done I had plenty of practice removing and installing the skid plate.
.Of course the bottom skid plate bolts were tough coming out of their "Body Bolt Clips" , should I expect anything else?
One of them was cross threaded and when trying to clean up the threads it ended up looking like this.
.Needless to say I didn't have any of these laying around so I needed to come up with something else.
A couple of nuts with the locking flange as part of the nut glued (Gooped) on to the frame. I may need to JB Weld these next time the skid plate is off as I am not sure how well the Goop will work in this situation but they needed something as it was very difficult to hold and align the skid plate, reach in trying to hold the nuts all while attempting to thread in the new bolts I had sourced for the purpose.
The picture is pre-goop. All said and done I had plenty of practice removing and installing the skid plate.
Last edited by carlrf on 12 Jan 2016 00:37, edited 2 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Oil Running Out of Repaired Filter Cover!
OK let's put some oil in this thing.
This is the most expensive bottle of oil I have ever used, the sticker on the bottle says $14.95. It came in the box of parts with the bike. I have always liked Spectro products but this is the only time the bike will see this stuff!
All happy with myself I roll the bike outside and start it up. I immediately see $14.95 a quart oil puking out on the drive! Oh sh*t
.
This is only small sample of what came out, I had already cleaned most of it up.
Back in the garage I am thinking I was too gingerly with the repaired fastener so I cautiously give it a little more turn and try it again, still pukes oil everywhere. Now I think I cut the O-ring filter cover seal so I lean the bike to the left hoping to not lose anymore of this oil, take the stupid skid plate off again (oil everywhere BTW) and pull the cover, every thing looks OK. I put it back together one more time without the skid plate and same thing. Really frustrated the filter cover comes off one more time.
Low and behold I realize what the problem is. When JB Welding the bolt in I cleaned all the excess from around the bolt but evidently a little more seeped out while setting up and it was preventing the cover from mating with the case, what a dummy.
I had cleaned around the base of the bolt when wet but after curing, it required further clean up with a razor knife to get the cover plate to seal. The picture is the uncured JB Weld that I had originally cleaned off.
Now I get to fight the skid plate installation again with uncured Goop to deal with.
Believe it or not somehow I get enjoyment out of all this, AFTER the fact! Go figure.
This is the most expensive bottle of oil I have ever used, the sticker on the bottle says $14.95
. It came in the box of parts with the bike. I have always liked Spectro products but this is the only time the bike will see this stuff!All happy with myself I roll the bike outside and start it up. I immediately see $14.95 a quart oil puking out on the drive! Oh sh*t
.This is only small sample of what came out, I had already cleaned most of it up.
Back in the garage I am thinking I was too gingerly with the repaired fastener so I cautiously give it a little more turn and try it again, still pukes oil everywhere.
Now I think I cut the O-ring filter cover seal so I lean the bike to the left hoping to not lose anymore of this oil, take the stupid skid plate off again (oil everywhere BTW) and pull the cover, every thing looks OK. I put it back together one more time without the skid plate and same thing. Really frustrated the filter cover comes off one more time. Low and behold I realize what the problem is. When JB Welding the bolt in I cleaned all the excess from around the bolt but evidently a little more seeped out while setting up and it was preventing the cover from mating with the case, what a dummy.
I had cleaned around the base of the bolt when wet but after curing, it required further clean up with a razor knife to get the cover plate to seal. The picture is the uncured JB Weld that I had originally cleaned off.
Now I get to fight the skid plate installation again with uncured Goop to deal with.
Believe it or not somehow I get enjoyment out of all this, AFTER the fact! Go figure.
Last edited by carlrf on 13 Jan 2016 14:02, edited 9 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Replacing the Throttle Cables
Broken plastic housing. Works but don't want to leave this to chance.
Around $20 at Dennis Kirk
Replacement went without a hitch. Removed tank (harder than replacing the cable), fished out the old one, fished in the new one, adjusted for just a little play. Reinstalled tank. Getting better at tank removal BTW.
Around $20 at Dennis Kirk
Replacement went without a hitch. Removed tank (harder than replacing the cable), fished out the old one, fished in the new one, adjusted for just a little play. Reinstalled tank. Getting better at tank removal BTW.
Last edited by carlrf on 13 Jan 2016 14:05, edited 4 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Changing Clutch and Brake Fluids
This can be a handy dandy (expensive) little tool for brake and clutch bleeding.
It's a combination wrench and check valve that allows 1 person brake bleeding, woohoo! I will take it!
It comes in wrench size 3/8", 8mm, 10mm and 11mm.
I only have the 8mm size as I needed it when bleeding the Miata brakes.
FRONT BRAKE
But, as you may suspect by now, it won't work on the front caliper bleed port. I am thinking "gosh, I should have went ahead and ordered the 8mm and 10mm .
I get a 10mm combination wrench to do the job, nope, it's an 11mm, Sheesh!
After getting all that sorted and ready I remove the front brake master cylinder cover and soak up all the fluid with a clean paper towel. Now I know some will say I could be contaminating the hydraulic system with miniscule fibers that come off the paper towel but I guess that's a risk I am willing to take.
I wrap the master cylinder with a rag to catch any spillage and with me that's a given. Then fill the reservoir with clean DOT 3&4 fluid. The rest goes as any other brake bleeding without any hitches.
Once upon a time I had a master cylinder that the cover screws were absolutely corroded in the cylinder threads so I had to drill out the heads, remove the cap then get the threaded length out of the cylinder body. Ever since then I almost always antiseize the cover screws when reassembling. I am sure you are getting sick of me talking on that topic!
CLUTCH
Of course my $25 handy dandy bleeding tool won't work on the clutch either. The size is right but there is NO room to work here. It was struggle just getting the bleed hose on.
BTW the clutch line and electrical wires you see are literally pulled away from the exhaust with zip ties, otherwise they would be against the header pipe. I will need to figure out some sort of heat shield here, maybe wrap the pipe at this point with insulating header wrap or something. Everything is super tight (close) on this bike.
After getting all that sorted and ready I remove the clutch master cylinder cover and soak up all the fluid with a clean paper towel. Again I know some will say I could be contaminating the hydraulic system with miniscule fibers that come off the paper towel but I guess that's a risk I am willing to take.
I wrap the master cylinder with a rag to catch any spillage and with me that's a given. Then fill the reservoir with clean DOT 3&4 fluid.
Except the one time I allowed a spot of air in the clutch hydraulic system due to letting the level get too low while bleeding, everything went as expected.
REAR BRAKE
To be continued..................
It's a combination wrench and check valve that allows 1 person brake bleeding, woohoo! I will take it!
It comes in wrench size 3/8", 8mm, 10mm and 11mm.
I only have the 8mm size as I needed it when bleeding the Miata brakes.
FRONT BRAKE
But, as you may suspect by now, it won't work on the front caliper bleed port. I am thinking "gosh, I should have went ahead and ordered the 8mm and 10mm
.I get a 10mm combination wrench to do the job, nope, it's an 11mm, Sheesh!
After getting all that sorted and ready I remove the front brake master cylinder cover and soak up all the fluid with a clean paper towel. Now I know some will say I could be contaminating the hydraulic system with miniscule fibers that come off the paper towel but I guess that's a risk I am willing to take.
I wrap the master cylinder with a rag to catch any spillage and with me that's a given. Then fill the reservoir with clean DOT 3&4 fluid. The rest goes as any other brake bleeding without any hitches.
Once upon a time I had a master cylinder that the cover screws were absolutely corroded in the cylinder threads so I had to drill out the heads, remove the cap then get the threaded length out of the cylinder body. Ever since then I almost always antiseize the cover screws when reassembling. I am sure you are getting sick of me talking on that topic!
CLUTCH
Of course my $25 handy dandy bleeding tool won't work on the clutch either. The size is right but there is NO room to work here. It was struggle just getting the bleed hose on.
BTW the clutch line and electrical wires you see are literally pulled away from the exhaust with zip ties, otherwise they would be against the header pipe. I will need to figure out some sort of heat shield here, maybe wrap the pipe at this point with insulating header wrap or something. Everything is super tight (close) on this bike.
After getting all that sorted and ready I remove the clutch master cylinder cover and soak up all the fluid with a clean paper towel. Again I know some will say I could be contaminating the hydraulic system with miniscule fibers that come off the paper towel but I guess that's a risk I am willing to take.
I wrap the master cylinder with a rag to catch any spillage and with me that's a given. Then fill the reservoir with clean DOT 3&4 fluid.
Except the one time I allowed a spot of air in the clutch hydraulic system due to letting the level get too low while bleeding, everything went as expected.
REAR BRAKE
To be continued..................
Last edited by carlrf on 12 Jan 2016 11:12, edited 13 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Changing the Sparkplug!
And you think this would be a "No Brainer" 
I did not receive any tools with the TE250 when purchased.
I tried every socket that would remotely fit in the plug recess to no avail.
The sockets would not go far enough into the plug recess to reach the hex on the plug.
I even tried the Sparkplug wrench borrowed from WR250R Yamaha tool kit, no good.
I researched this issue and found other individuals with the exact same problem. The responses only indicated others did not have this problem using a thin walled socket or a sparkplug specific wrench. This didn't help at all.
Well this went on a week or so. That plug was coming out one way or another!
I decided the valve cover had to come off to find a solution to this problem.
After valve cover removal I tried the plug wrench in the valve cover and it passed through just fine. I tried the plug wrench in the head and was able to remove the plug with no issues. What the heck is going on?
As I was snooping around I see this flat rubber gasket laying on the valve train, hmmm. I bet this is the gasket that seals the plug opening between the head and the valve cover. I try to fit the wrench inside the gasket and it will not go without deforming the gasket! It had either swelled or is just too small of an inside diameter to allow plug wrench or socket to reach the plug hex.
I got out the Dremel with a small grinding stone and removed enough material from the inside diameter of the rubber gasket for the plug wrench to fit, but careful not to remove so much as to leak oil into the plug cavity, I hope.
Another mystery solved on what's becoming a very fussy/finicky Italian motorcycle. If you have been around a while you are aware of the reputation Italian equipment has, I had a Fiat once too and a friend with a MotoGuzzi! Well that reputation is becoming well earned on this Husqvarna! And I haven't even rode it yet.
NGK Spark Plug 6955 Spark Plug CR9EB from Amazon.
Of course the rubber inside the plug wrench is critical to hold the plug for removal after unscrewing. I guess you could use a magnet or some other means to fish it out but it wouldn't be too fun.
I did not receive any tools with the TE250 when purchased.
I tried every socket that would remotely fit in the plug recess to no avail.
The sockets would not go far enough into the plug recess to reach the hex on the plug.
I even tried the Sparkplug wrench borrowed from WR250R Yamaha tool kit, no good.
I researched this issue and found other individuals with the exact same problem. The responses only indicated others did not have this problem using a thin walled socket or a sparkplug specific wrench. This didn't help at all.
Well this went on a week or so. That plug was coming out one way or another!
I decided the valve cover had to come off to find a solution to this problem.
After valve cover removal I tried the plug wrench in the valve cover and it passed through just fine. I tried the plug wrench in the head and was able to remove the plug with no issues. What the heck is going on?
As I was snooping around I see this flat rubber gasket laying on the valve train, hmmm. I bet this is the gasket that seals the plug opening between the head and the valve cover. I try to fit the wrench inside the gasket and it will not go without deforming the gasket! It had either swelled or is just too small of an inside diameter to allow plug wrench or socket to reach the plug hex.
I got out the Dremel with a small grinding stone and removed enough material from the inside diameter of the rubber gasket for the plug wrench to fit, but careful not to remove so much as to leak oil into the plug cavity, I hope.
Another mystery solved on what's becoming a very fussy/finicky Italian motorcycle. If you have been around a while you are aware of the reputation Italian equipment has, I had a Fiat once too and a friend with a MotoGuzzi! Well that reputation is becoming well earned on this Husqvarna! And I haven't even rode it yet.
NGK Spark Plug 6955 Spark Plug CR9EB from Amazon.
Of course the rubber inside the plug wrench is critical to hold the plug for removal after unscrewing. I guess you could use a magnet or some other means to fish it out but it wouldn't be too fun.
Last edited by carlrf on 12 Jan 2016 11:13, edited 2 times in total.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
Just wanted to see it again in the thread.
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
What has happened all of Carls pics and his avatar are now just an x in a black box. In fact some of the other avatar like Savages are also in a x in a box. Most of the other pics on the threads are ok. Did something on my computer change or .....??
Computer challenged
Computer challenged
Make postive choices by eliminating negative options
Not to decide is to decide
Success is not what you accomplish but what you overcome
R1200GS
crf 230f
690 enduro
Not to decide is to decide
Success is not what you accomplish but what you overcome
R1200GS
crf 230f
690 enduro
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
I can still.see them but the sizes are too big on a few due to my inexperience. ?
2010 Husqvarna TE250
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
I am guessing something happened on my computer , all the pics on this thread your avatar and Savages avatar are the only pics replaced with the x in a box. No clue.
Make postive choices by eliminating negative options
Not to decide is to decide
Success is not what you accomplish but what you overcome
R1200GS
crf 230f
690 enduro
Not to decide is to decide
Success is not what you accomplish but what you overcome
R1200GS
crf 230f
690 enduro
Re: 2010 TE250 Husqvarna in the Garage!
I can see all of Carl's pics, but not Savages avatar
Ed M
BFE, TX
BFE, TX