RideForum.NET

Pulled the trigger on a street legal Husqvarna that popped up on CL today.
Just rode it around the block but seems like it rips for a 250!
1200 miles
Came with larger tank.
Spare rear wheel with Street gearing on it.
Aftermarket exhaust and original.
Fender eliminator kit.
Power Commander and modded fuel injector.
All original parts.
etc.

For a street-legal dirtbike, they don't come any lighter or more powerful than that Husqvarna! Not the most cushy of machines, but you are going to have fun!

Congrats!

Welcome to the Husky owners club, population 2 (that I'm aware of). Just took the TE511 down to Chadwick for the first time on Saturday. In the short time I've had it, I've been really impressed with the quality.

Pretty sharp looking bike!

The 2010 series Husqvarna's are very good machines. The quality is top-notch when it comes to the engine, transmission, suspension, and most components. The place they get "cheap" is the quality of the plastics and attention to detail in the wiring and connectors. (Personal experience with a 2008 TE450 I bought.) You don't notice these minor issues until you need to take some stuff apart to work on the bike. Not a show-stopper by any means. It's a great, high-tech, high-strung beast!

Thanks for input!

BTW, Sometimes I hate forums!
Reason: I looked up "Café Husky" and there is talk of timing gear bearings disintegrating!

Too much information



http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-t ... sue.27292/

carlrf wrote:Thanks for input!

BTW, Sometimes I hate forums!
Reason: I looked up "Café Husky" and there is talk of timing gear bearings disintegrating!

Too much information
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-t ... sue.27292/

Sweet, I've read about these, I think what they mean is you can time travel on this bike.. It's just unknown as to what time you will pop out at..

All kidding aside, congrats on the bike.. Sure looks nice and shiny!
Besides, after what you did with your last bike, am sure any problems that might come up, your well setup to get them addressed. As an added bonus, the rest of us get an excellent presentation!

What is the seat height if I can ask?
It sure is a good looking bike and again congrats on the new toy!

I had a 2005 TE 510 and it was the most powerful bike I ever had. Troy described the difference between a KTM and a Husky using a car analogy, a KTM is a BMW and a Husky is a Ferrari. I was happy with the Husky, but there was no dealer in the KC area. It appears Donnell's in Independence is a dealer now so that is good. I had great luck with Halls Cycles at of Illinois, here is their link http://www.halls-cycles.com they have been Husqvarna dealers for a long time and know their stuff.

Good luck and I hope to see you on the trials this spring.

Daryl

Jamee wrote:

carlrf wrote:Thanks for input!
............................................................................................................... information
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-t ... sue.27292/

Sweet, I've read about these, ....................................... Sure looks nice and shiny!
Besides, after what you did with your last bike, am sure any problems that might come up, your well setup to get them addressed. As an added bonus, the rest of us get an excellent presentation!

What is the seat height if I can ask?
It sure is a good looking bike and again congrats on the new toy!

Thanks.
Seat height? Frigin tall! I think its listed as 37" but it squashes down once mounted.
Took to get inspection yesterday. Geared like it is (for dirt) it rings out about 50mph ! It runs good though. And like most of the internet comments on the gearing, 1st is tall, 6th is short and all are close.
Brake light isn't working and had to whack the horn to make it work but they passed it on my promise to get it resolved.
Brake

The first thing I did when I came home from the inspection station was to lower the brake pedal by rotating the cam and shortening the push rod. Put some blue lock-tight on the cam bolt, would hate to loose that on the road or trail.This included lubing the pivot points, spring and push rod in the cylinder too.

(This is an image off the net not actual mtc.)



Didn't get pictures but adjusted the after market clutch lever to engage/disengage? the clutch closer to the handlebars. I can already see that I will be feathering the clutch at low speeds off road due to the tall first gear. Again this included lubing the pivot points of the lever assembly and springs on both the clutch and brake.

Started tracing brake light problem but haven't got very far, except to find the front brake switch dangling from it's wires under the lever. Actuating the switch with my fingers still didn't produce a brake light. I am not for sure yet but the brake light may be staying on all the time instead of not lighting.

Hank Moody wrote:I had a 2005 TE 510 and it was the most powerful bike I ever had. Troy described the difference between a KTM and a Husky using a car analogy, a KTM is a BMW and a Husky is a Ferrari. I was happy with the Husky, but there was no dealer in the KC area. It appears Donnell's in Independence is a dealer now so that is good. I had great luck with Halls Cycles at of Illinois, here is their link http://www.halls-cycles.com they have been Husqvarna dealers for a long time and know their stuff.

Good luck and I hope to see you on the trials this spring.

Daryl

Thanks for the Halls link.

OK. The brake light was staying on, The reason it would not work when operating the switch with my hand was the engine wasn't running, should have known better but getting forgetful.
You can see the little "nubbins" on the switch are broke off. One of them is supposed to go in the hole on the bracket in the top of the picture.



So the only thing I know to do is glue it,



And clamp it overnight.



Fixed!

Next up, I wanted to experiment with handlebar position pulling them back to me a bit. I go to loosen the first hex head cap screw on the clamp and found it insanely tight, to the point I thought I was going to break something or round out the hex on the bolt. After finally getting one broke loose it remained difficult most of the way out. All of them were as difficult as the first. They had corroded/seized (not anti-seized ) themselves in the aluminum lower handlebar clamp.


Realizing I need to remedy this situation I go get the anti-seize (sound familiar?) and coated all four bolts one at a time, running a nut all the way up on each to evenly distribute the ant-seize of the entire length of the bolts then reinstalling.



And..........



Much better!

I suspected some Tom Foolery behind the headlight since it and the signals had been changed. Although not too bad, I am glad I checked as all the male to female electrical connectors were very loose and the female needed a squeeze with some needle nose pliers and the males reinserted. Also I wasn't crazy about the taping job that was done so I took it all apart and started over.



It probably doesn't look much different than the first shot but I feel better knowing what's there.

I decided to pull off all the plastic to get a look at things.
Time for a coolant change. All hoses are coming off and everything gets washed and flushed with water.



I don't care for the look of the aftermarket exhaust guard, It's coming off and will be replaced with the original.





OEM I.



The bottom horizontal coolant hose literally rests on the exhaust. When I reinstalled the hoses, I used a big zip tie to give it some clearance. When I did that, the coolant pipe elbow would dig into the fan housing. So I had to fabricate a makeshift guard or protector out of a plastic cap I had saved to keep the shroud from grinding a hole in the coolant pipe.

The age of the battery is unknown and it looks kind of beat up. I ordered a low budget replacement. Should be here next week. Also I see no provision for a hold down strap. Not sure how I am going to secure it just yet.



Coolant hoses all cleaned up. Clamps cleaned and lubed. Clamps could be better, they are worse for the wear. Went to home depot for replacements but didn't find what I was looking for. I will reuse these for now.





I think these are aftermarket radiator guards, pretty nice. Should take a drop. I continue to find semi-seized/rusted bolts holding things together and the radiator mounting bolts were no different. Removed, cleaned and anti-seized all related hardware.

And...........

That looks like a clean, well-taken care of bike. All the bolts stuck together would make me feel good. That means it hasn't been monkeyed with.

I was rerouting a couple of electrical cables and finally found the Power Commander I thought was there. It was hanging around in the bottom of the air box. Trust me, I know nothing about troubleshooting or tuning fuel injection!



I found a new home for it rubber banded (trusty cutup inner tube) to the battery.

Cleaned up the radiator hardware somewhat.

OMG I forgot to mention the hand guard insanity.

The right guard came off with no problem and was able to get it squared away in fairly short order. However the left one was bear. It would jut spin and spin. Finally had to get rough with it.





Of course the bolts were corroded/rusted in place. I managed to strip this one on installation after cleaning and lubing.
The hand guards took some time and effort, more than I planned on (not that I have anything else to do). Fortunately there were enough threads in the handlebar mount that I was able to install a longer bolt and make it work.



Darn thing gave me fits getting it freed up to the point of being able to reinstall with the hope of it being right for future removal and reinstallation.