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Is it really necessary ?
I have always heard the first service is just an expensive oil change,
and that very few dealers actually check the valves.
I already changed the oil at 50 miles, and will do it again today when I
hit 500 miles. (462 at the moment)
My bike is a 2007 KLR650
Thanks

I bought a 06' KLR 650 last jun and have put 5000 miles on it since then. I just change oil regularly and followed the brake in period. no problems with it at this time.

The KLR is a shim and bucket type valve and doesnt move much. It wouldnt hurt to just check but for the most part probably wont need adjusted. My BMW F650 is the same valve and it hasnt moved in 24K. Although i bought it from dealer with 1K on it. They had done the 500 mile check up.

The KLR is not a high strung motor and pretty easy on the valves. If it was mine...I would just check to make sure. But Im pretty anal. Each bike is different and you never know??

How have you been doing the ware in? This may determin wether I did it or waited a bit. If you have been ripping on it, I would check them.

Hayden

Checking the valve clearance is usually a simple job. Sometimes it takes somebody to show you where to put the feeler guage, but after that, quick and simple. (Note: I do not have a KLR.) I bought a sacrificial set of feeler guage that I could bend the final 1/2" or so to have an angled guage to use. You need to spend some money for a set that has a lot of sizes. Find out what your bike specifies for clearance range and be sure the set of guages you buy has several thicknesses within that range.

Write down two numbers for each valve in your manual (so that you can find the numbers in the future):
- Max thickness of your guage set that will "go" without being forced. The best description I have read of what a "go" fit is: "like peeling Scotch tape off of the roll."
- Min thickness of your guage set that will not "go".

Next time you check, see if these numbers have changed. If they don't change, I would increase my valve check interval. If they do change, decrease (or use factory spec) interval.

To change valve clearances with a shim and bucket system is somewhat complicated. You can leave that to the dealer/mechanic IF you find the clearances out of spec.

My bikes specify that clearances are to be checked with the engine cold. That is important. Don't run the bike for 10 or 12 hours before you check the clearances. (I assume a KLR specifies similar.)


What I would do:

I would check the clearances. If out of spec, take it to the mechanic, but don't tell them that you already checked them. Tell them that you want to know the actual clearance (or range ... max feeler guage goes in, min feeler guage that doesn't go in) so that you can get an idea over time if the clearances are changing. IF they tell you it is all ok, question them. And use a different mechanic in the future.

I am probably going to trade the KLR for a KTM 990 Adventure.

StealthRider wrote:I am probably going to trade the KLR for a KTM 990 Adventure.

This is a great plan, when you need maintenance just buy a new bike I haven't tried that on the boss...

Well for sure you will be trading up in performance and maintenance requirements.

Why did you change the oil at 50 miles?

Just wondering...

Dakar wrote:Why did you change the oil at 50 miles?

Just wondering...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have always done an early oil & filter change on all of my bikes.
There were a lot of metal particles in the oil.

Sheesh now you tell me!

Thank you for the linky...

Stealthrider

You should have a PM from me.