RideForum.NET

Found a couple helpful YouTube videos for us newbies to the Katoom world.

Valve adjustment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8

Oil Change
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KFE5dO3 ... re=related

Also found top end rebuild video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6lFFXk_ ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzGQxtir ... feature=iv

Water pump seal replacement
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynsdUY5QYvw

Great videos...did anybody catch what he was using to clean the screens. Also, does everybody clean their screens every oil change. I was told by the previous owner of my ktm450exc that the screens only need to be cleaned every other oil change. If it is as simple as the video then may as well clean them everytime.

While on the subject of ktm oil change, what oil do you use in 4 stroke ktm? The 2003 manual calls for some type of Shell oil which I'm not even sure can be found anymore. For my first oil change I used what Jim out at Letco recommneded; BG Shear Power.

Well, the KTM factory folks have switched to massage oil (See Ride Report 5/02/20)

It was suggested to me to try Rotella T synthetic 5w50. It's oil with specs that exceed the the OEM standards for KTM. It's a oil intended to meet the demands of turbo diesel engines. So far no complaints and it's readily available at Walmart, Tractor Supply, etc.

Ditto on the screens. If I can clean them less frequently that's one less hassle.

I use the Rotella syn in all the bikes and my trucks. One oil for everything. I Like it a lot.

T

MacWildcat wrote:Well, the KTM factory folks have switched to massage oil (See Ride Report 5/02/20)

It was suggested to me to try Rotella T synthetic 5w50. It's oil with specs that exceed the the OEM standards for KTM. It's a oil intended to meet the demands of turbo diesel engines. So far no complaints and it's readily available at Walmart, Tractor Supply, etc.

Ditto on the screens. If I can clean them less frequently that's one less hassle.

Oil: My personal preference ... any full synthetic oil with a high viscosity range (Mobil 1 15-50, Castrol Syntec 5-50, Rotella, etc.). Mobil 1 15-50 has a higher level of ZDDP (zinc molecule that lubricates metal/metal contact surfaces), so I will probably be using it from now on. I don't know what the Syntec levels are.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... _Guide.pdf.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate
(Note the first link shows Mobil 1 is available as 5-50, although I haven't seen that at retailers.)

I bet you can't go wrong no matter what full syn you use ... Bet you can't go wrong with any dino oil either, just change more often.


Screens: I have a problem with his method. The oil is pulled through the screens from outside to inside. I believe KTM calls for compressed air from the inside so you blow particles OUT of the screen, not further into the screens. Some sort of liquid from inside to out would probably be better. That said, I wondered in the past about the PITA factor of the screens, then an article in Dirth Rider showed how to take apart some non-KTM dirtbike engine side cover and flywheel to get at the oil screen. KTM doesn't seem so bad with that in mind.

Remember that those screens are there to protect the oil pumps from ingesting large chunks of metal or other debris that would ruin them. The oil filters take out the fine material.

IMHO if those screens are plugged you have a serious issue and are going to need to split the cases (after you take off the head/cylinder/piston) so as to clean up the mess that some mechanical failure caused as well as to fix that failure.

I have Scotts filters in my 450 and I have gone to cleaning the filters every second oil change. The screens I do every 3rd oil change. This way I look at some sort of filter 2 out of 3 oil changes but not all of them. I figure if there is something wrong inside its going to show up on a filter or screen no matter which one I look at. To date I have not found one speck of anything on a screen.

Hayden.

I followed the video for valve adjustment Sunday, worked pretty slick. Only discrepancy I found was attempting to turn over the engine by rotating the tire with the decomp lever pulled. I ended up loosening the spark plug to make it easier. Discovered my valves were set completely tight - no clearance.

Sounded better when I started it up, haven't had a chance to take it out for a ride yet.

From a non KTM owner I thought they were informative and they sure made it look easy! The Husky uses a "basket and shim" system for the valves and I think I like this option better because there are no shims to buy.